“The architecture of a city begins when you look upwards” This was quoted to me as being by Gerald Manley Hopkins – although I have never found any evidence of it being by him! Nevertheless, it’s a sentence that encapsulates a world of difference in perspective from common street level.
When one walks around the streets of Johannesburg, made fantastic by the mega-wealthy Rand Lords and the gold rush of over a hundred years ago, to raise your eyes above the bustling streets – crowded with hawkers selling bargain basement cheap vegetables, and hooting taxis – is to experience a sudden epiphany. There is a hidden city within this city, just waiting to be developed and explored. It’s just a magic carpet ride away.
So let me take you up to the rooftops of Johannesburg. Rooftops which are not yet the equal of their brothers and sisters in other cities, such as New York where penthouses, pools and premium restaurants jostle for prime position, or Melbourne where cool rooftop bars enjoy panaramic vistas, or even the old walled city of Jersusalem, but rooftops which hold so much potential. Spaces are springing up everywhere, blank canvases on which to create magic and enjoy new generation urban living, and sometimes ugly looking skyscrapers are the perfect receptacle for this.
The greening of rooftops in many major cities has enjoyed much column space over recent years, and everywhere there are exciting things to do on a rooftop, from creating wind turbines or solar power, to growing organic vegetables, to beekeeping, to cool restaurants and bars and penthouse poolsides. Skyscrapers have become the new urban exploration – sound decreases the further up one goes, the views are panoramic, urban planning suddenly makes complete sense and even when the roofs break out in a weekend rash of multi-coloured squares of washing, whipped fiercely by the wind, or are densely populated by colonies of satellite dishes, this is the inspiration for a photographer’s lens, rather than an eyesore. These are the places where top companies’s helipads are located, where mothers soap their unwilling children thoroughly from head to toe using a plastic bucket, where potplants thrive, where cool sounds drift across the rooftops, where you can be as voyeuristic or private as you wish.
Johannesburg has some of the most spectacular sunsets in the world, and dizzying views from 50 storey high buildings truly are the “Top of Africa”. We may not have a mountain or be able to bungee jump off our buildings (just yet), but you can get the best views in and of the city from the following “rooftop players” which allow for an inner-city engagement –
Randlords
Designed by husband and wife team Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens, who just won the VISI designers of the year for their work on the project, this spectacular glassed-in venue, named after those very same mega-wealthy Rand Lord entrepreneurs and owned by South Point, commands 360 degree views of the city. Sadly they don’t have a licence, so the bar with its recycled light fittings is not open to the public (damn!). But you can book it as a space for parties, and the prices are more affordable than when they first started out. It’s hip, it’s chic, the decor is fantastic and it looks across at other rooftop players. Kind of like the beacons being lit in The Lord of the Rings … Randlords was the starting point for Jozi’s rooftop regeneration and is drawing Braamfontein’s hipsters by the score
Skyline Gardens
A more affordable version of Randlords, Skyline Gardens is at One Biccard, which also has 24 double-storey penthouse apartments (Richard Griffin, the owner of Madame Zingara, keeps one as his Joburg base, Josef Talotta from South Point Developments tells me. One Biccard is also housing the SABT’s international guest performers). Skyline Gardens is on the 13th floor of One Biccard and holds about 100 guests, with built-in seating around fireplaces. It’s a more casual venue than Randlords and is perfect for rooftop braais.
Lamunu Hotel
Inner city hotels often have space constraints and using the rooftop space in this funky, student hotel on the corner of De Korte and Melle Streets makes sense. There are great plans for the spaces surrounding the hotel too, from a coffee roastery to restaurants on the street, just around the block from 70 Juta Street.
The Ashanti Apartments
This cool Marshalltown apartment building has created a rooftop vista with a pool, perfect for residents who want to “get away from it all”. There is a little wooden deck and great views across the city. Again, it is glassed in, great for looking and being looked at!
The Parktonian
The Parktonian has created a poolside vibe up on their roof, which is private and relaxed.
The Carlton Centre
There is a rather shabby cafe in the viewing area on the 50th floor. While doing my walk through the city with inner city-ite and architect Brian McKechnie we bumped into the marketing guy for Cafe@50th, and suggested that they move the tables to the windows. That way patrons can enjoy that vertiginous drop with the extra-adrenalised boost of a good cup of coffee. It’s a space that is just begging to be utilised, and instead of marching through the centre itself (which is confusing with all those strange blue struts from the 80s) you could instead just take the lift right up to the 50th floor. There is an almost vertical view down. Brian has flats in the Anstey Building, a heritage building from the 30s which boasts a gorgeous frieze of brass monkeys in the lobby. Residents do “rap jumping” at the weekend, which is a form of abseiling in reverse. Originally thought up by the Australians during the Vietnam War, it is an activity which would make Spiderman proud. The top flats have balconies which are small havens, but the wind blows too fiercely to do that most popular of inner city Jozi rooftop activities – the washing. Sometimes shirts land up in the street below!
The Shine Studio
The venue for this year’s SAFW, this modelling agency has a glassed-in area which overlooks the railway lines across Smit Street. It’s a great view and not quite as vertigo-inducing as some other spaces. But again, it’s a venue, not a public area.
The 12 Decades Hotel
The ever inventive Jonathan Liebman has made a wonderful Arts on Main rooftop bar at the top of his downtown hotel, perfect for sundowners.
If it’s art you are after, look no further than Alastair Machlachlan’s city centre rooftop arts and events space, Private Practice, atop the Lister Medical Centre. Alastair has an innate understanding of rooftops, and his photographs capture the downward looking perspective perfectly, by day or night. His nightime shots show the never-ending neon streamers of traffic and he makes the washing into art. It’s even fun walking to the venue as Joburg is actually easier to walk around than to drive through. A brisk walk through the Smal Street Mall from the Carlton Centre should get you there. Brian tells me as we go that the rents here are higher than anywhere else in the country, due to the turnover in retail goods and the foot passage.
Brilliant rooftop penthouses include Adam Levy’s pad just around the corner from 70 Juta Street, and the view of the Nelson Mandela Bridge just doesn’t get better!
Two very under-utilised spaces which should be part of the city's roofscape are -
The Revolving Restaurant
The Revolving Restaurant in Braamfontein which, when it was the head office of Volvo long ago, saw patrons dining in citytop glamour. It can be seen from Randlords and is owned by Wits, who won’t sadly be doing it up any time soon.
The Brixton Tower
The buzz of conversation constantly turns to the restaurant at its top re-opening but Frederika Baxter of the Brixton Community Forum says that, although her team were the first to go up there since 1981, when security was a problem, there are no plans at this stage to re-open the restaurant. Well, we will just have to wait and see, won’t we? Frederika has told me to watch this space
The Lighthouse
Nightclub The Lighthouse (literally a stone lighthouse plakked on top of a building) also closed down, and perhaps another business person with vision will take it over. There is definitely an opening for a cool inner-city rooftop nightclub that stays open till the wee hours. Where else are you supposed to take your overseas friends?
Meanwhile, the rooftop scene is flourishing in other parts besides Braamfontein, Marshalltown and the CBD. Mark Valentine has opened up Amatuli art shop in Kramerview and says the area is hoping to see more rooftop venues soon. He purchased a 17th century Maharajah’s palace from Jodhpur and wants to install it on top of his shop. The plan is to incoporate elements of the palace with corrugated iron pieces that have been wallpapered. He also has plans for a rooftop cinema in the venue. It sounds helluva glamorous and I, for one, can’t wait for it to open. The vistas are not as breathtaking as those in the inner city, but Mark says Kramerview was ugly to begin with. so doing up the roofs can only be an improvement!